Treats : ETHNIC COOKING : Day of the Dead: White Beans and Flowers

Although she has lived in Los Angeles for 23 years, Olympia Durand remembers the ceremonies commemorating All Souls Day in her native El Salvador.

In urban areas such as Durand’s hometown, Nejapa (which is close to San Salvador), the observance lasts two days. On Nov. 1, families arrange flowers on the tombs of children, a custom that is called enflorar a los ninos . The next day, tombs of adults are decorated with wreaths of cypress branches.

The custom is to have Mass said at the graves of departed loved ones, so the atmosphere is devout. But afterward there is feasting, and little stalls with thatched roofs just outside the cemetery entrance provide a variety of well-loved treats.

Sweets include ojuelas , which are thin, crisp, fried corn-flour breads served with brown sugar syrup, and torrejas en miel , bits of deep-fried bread resembling French toast in syrup. There are also typical Salvadoran foods such as pupusas ; pasteles de carne (small fried cornmeal pies filled with meat and potato); yuca (fresh cassava root) accompanied by chicharron (fried pork cracklings) or fritada (an assortment of fried pork variety meats). Still more traditional foods include fried bananas in syrup; chilate , a corn drink accompanied by fried bananas, and pan con chumpe , a turkey sandwich that includes a tangy spoonful of the Salvadoran cabbage pickle, curtido .

The feasting continues at home, where the main dish is likely to be sopa de frijoles. This white bean soup is served either alone, with handmade tortillas as accompaniment, or as part of a dinner that might include broiled steak, fried rice, vegetables and a lettuce, tomato, cucumber and radish salad dressed with fresh lemon juice.

Durand, who provided her recipe for sopa de frijoles, is assistant manager at Casa de Sousa, an Olvera Street shop that specializes in Mexican and Latin American decorative arts. In Mexico, All Souls Day, also known as the Day of the Dead, is celebrated with considerable levity. An exhibit of whimsical decorations associated with the observance will continue at the shop until just before Thanksgiving. Works of Mexican artists Cuca and Conchita Sousa de Cubillo are featured along with such novelties as skeleton-decorated tablecloths and napkins, skeletons peeking out of a hammock strung overhead, masks, skulls, posters and T-shirts.

OLYMPIA DURAND’S SOPA DE FRIJOLES (Salvadoran White Bean Soup)

1 tablespoon achiote seeds

Water

2 cups large great northern beans

1 clove garlic, peeled

2 bay leaves

Salt

1/2 pound pork back bones

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tomatoes, finely chopped

1/2 onion, finely chopped

1 small green pepper, finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

Soak achiote seeds in 1 cup hot water to extract color and flavor. Strain seeds from water and set water aside. Bring 2 quarts water to boil. Add beans, garlic and bay leaves. Season to taste with salt. Boil, loosely covered, until beans begin to soften. Add pork back bones, cover and continue to cook 1 1/2 hours, adding more water if needed.

Heat olive oil in skillet. Add tomatoes, onion, green pepper and oregano and fry lightly. Add to soup along with strained achiote water. Cook 10 minutes, or until heated through. Makes about 12 cups.

Each cup contains about: 128 calories; 30 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.14 grams fiber.