Gone fishing

Red Lion Tavern

Among the hearty dishes served at this German watering hole is the schnitzel a la Holstein: crisp pork schnitzel, nearly the size of a Frisbee, topped with a fried egg and anchovies. It may sound like an unlikely combination, but it works, especially when accompanied by a stein of something fragrant and foamy.

* Schnitzel, $18. 2366 Glendale Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 662-5337.

Sopra

At this 6-month-old Italian restaurant, in the second-floor space that has been home to La Di Da, Cyrano and, for many years, Pane Caldo, the cold “spuntini” (small plate) offerings include white Spanish anchovies, marinated in olive oil and lemon juice, served over sliced boiled potatoes and finished with a scattering of fresh parsley. The patio, with its fab views of the Hollywood Hills, is the place to sit.

* Anchovies, $6. 8840 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 492-0880.

Sage on the Coast

At his pretty O.C. dining room, Chef Rich Mead takes organic cauliflower -- sometimes it’s white, sometimes purple, orange or green -- blanches it and coats it in a mixture of olive oil, basil, parmesan and finely minced anchovy. He adds bread crumbs, then into the oven it goes, till it’s golden brown. Makes that whole eat-your-vegetables thing so easy.

* Cauliflower, $8. 7862 E. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, (949) 715-7243.

Angeli Caffe

Usually you find puttanesca sauce on pasta. (Puttanesca, by the way, loosely translates to “prostitute style.”) But at Evan Kleiman’s comfy, casual Ital, the tangy tomato-based sauce, made with lots of garlic as well as capers, olives and hot pepper, tops a pizza. The final touch is salty anchovy fillets. They’re optional. But why wouldn’t you?

* Small pizza, $9; large, $11.50. 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A. (323) 936-9086.

Grace

Warm al dente black chickpeas, a.k.a. garbanzos -- who knew they came in more than one hue? -- are tossed with cool hearts of romaine, white Spanish anchovies marinated in olive oil, and a garlic-herb vinaigrette. The result is one delicious little salad, one of several served at Neal Fraser’s great-looking new American dining room.

* Salad, $16. 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 934-4400.

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-- Leslee Komaiko