Jonathan Gold | Counter Intelligence: Littlefork

The main dining room at Littlefork, on Wilcox Avenue, looks like a spare tavern, with dead animals on the walls.   (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

A smoked meat poutine with curd and gravy.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The bar area at Littlefork stays open later most nights.   (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Apple cider doughnuts, with apple butter and salted caramel.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Portuguese-style mussels.  (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

An icy platter of Rocky Nook oysters from New England.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Brook trout, potato salad and hot sauce.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

The main dining room, seen through light reflections on the window at Littlefork.  (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Chef Jason Travi prepares an oyster platter.   (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)