B.S. Taqueria

The beef torta at B.S. Taqueria; beef Milanese, pickled beet, escabeche and iceberg lettuce, $11.

More great L.A.-area restaurants: Jonathan Gold’s 101

The exterior of chef Ray Garcia’s B.S. Taqueria on West 7th Street in downtown Los Angeles. The restaurant offers a modern take on traditional Mexican food. Tacos are a specialty.

Lemon-pepper chicken chicharrones with chicken skins, chicken oysters, lemon and shishito, $6.

Cauliflower al pastor with pineapple, cippolinis and tortillas, $10.

A clam-and-lard taco at B.S. Taqueria.

Churros with chile de arbol-chocolate, $7.

A look at the full bar inside B.S. Taqueria.

The dining area at B.S. Taqueria is reminiscent of a backyard patio.

Diners lounge at a window seat at B.S. Taqueria.

B.S. Taqueria’s ceiling decorations.

A customer contemplates the campechana verde.

Chef Ray Garcia, left, working in the kitchen of his B.S. Taqueria.

Chef Ray Garcia at B.S. Taqueria. More great L.A.-area restaurants: Jonathan Gold’s 101