Planning your trip to Beijing, China

THE BEST WAY

From LAX to Beijing, nonstop service is offered on China Air, and connecting service (change of plane) is offered on China Eastern, China Southern, All Nippon, United, Korean, JAL, Northwest, American, United and Cathay Pacific. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $860.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 86 (country code for China) and the local number.

AROUND BEIJING

Beijing Hikers, 139-100-25516, www.beijinghikers.com, is a convivial group that welcomes visitors. Hikes around the city leave from the Holiday Inn Lido in northeastern Beijing every Saturday and Sunday morning. They cost about $25, including bus transportation, snacks and services of a guide.

Chinese Culture Club, Kent Center, 29 Anjialou, Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang; 10-6432-1041, www.chinesecultureclub.org, has a range of programs in and around Beijing.

Cycle China, 12 Jinshan East St., 10-8402-4147, rents bikes and offers guided tours.

Mountain Yoga, 10-6259-6702, www.mountainyoga.cn, offers yoga retreats at its Fragrant Hills center and at a tepee encampment near the Great Wall; the price of my two-night stay, with meals, instruction and transportation was about $125.

WHERE TO STAY

CHAOYANG

Home Inn, A2 Xinzhong St., 10-5120-3288, www.homeinns.com, is a modest but clean Chinese budget chain hotel near the Dongzhimen interchange; doubles start at about $30.

Poly Plaza Hotel, 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie, 10-6500-1188, www.polyhotel.com. Technically, this hotel is in Dongcheng, but it’s actually closer to some of the main sites of Chaoyang. It’s a modern, high-rise hotel with 292 rooms. Doubles start at around $250.

DONGCHENG

Beijing Haoyuan Hotel, 53 Sijia Hutong, Deng Shi East, 10-6512-5557, www.haoyuanhotel.com is a 19-room hotel set around Qing Dynasty courtyards and run by the All-China Women’s Federation; doubles start at about $80.

Beijing Sihe Hotel, 5 Den Cao Hutong, Dongsi South Street, 10-5169-3555, has 12 rooms in a Qing Dynasty courtyard residence; doubles about $80, with breakfast.

Days Inn, 1 Nanwanzi Bystreet, Nanheyan Street; 10-6512-7788, www.daysinn.com. New and beautifully located near the Forbidden City. From $51.

Guxiang 20, 20 S. Luoguxiang, 10-6400-5566, www.guxiang20.com, is a small, stylish hotel that opened earlier this year on one of Beijing’s most accommodating hutongs; doubles from $120.

Hotel Kapok, 16 Donguamen St., 10-6525-9988, www.hotelkapok.com, is a new, Western-style boutique hotel steps from the Forbidden City, designed by celebrated Chinese architect Zhu Pei; doubles start at $65 and vary according to season.

Red Capital Residence, 9 Dongsi Liu Tiao, 10-8401-8886, www.redcapitalclub.com, is in a siheyuan-style courtyard residence and has five guest rooms stuffed with Communist-era tchotchkes; doubles start at $190.

WEST END

Fragrant Hill Hotel, Fragrant Hill, 10-6259-1166, designed by I.M. Pei in 1982, is set beside idyllic Incense Burner Peak in the hills on the extreme western side of Beijing; doubles from about $80.

Peking University Shaoyuan Guest House, Peking University, 10-6275-2218, is a large, no-frills conference center hotel on the campus of the university, a Chinese ivory tower; doubles start around $30.

Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, 10-6841-2211, www.shangri-la.com, is a luxury high-rise hotel near the Beijing Zoo; doubles start about $185.

Unicenter, Building 10, 1 Zhongguancun East Road, 10-6279-1888, is a stylish new hotel at the gates of Tsinghua University; doubles start at $195.

WHERE TO EAT

CHAOYANG

Alameda, Nali Mall, Sanlitun North Street, 10-6417-8084, serves tapas and Brazilian-inspired cuisine; dinner from $21 per person.

Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant, 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, 10-6582-2892, is famous for its super lean Peking Duck; about $20 per person.

Green T. House, 6 Gongixilu, 10-6552-8311, has a creative Asian fusion menu and dreamy contemporary decor; three courses about $50.

DONGCHENG

Courtyard, 95 Donghuamen Ave., 10-6526-8883, www.courtyardbeijing.com, is an elegant restaurant on the moat beside the Forbidden City with a chef trained at the Culinary Institute of America; three-course dinner about $50.

Drum and Bell, 41 Zhong Lou Wan Hu Tong, 10-8403-3600, is an easy-going restaurant-cafe with a roof garden that overlooks the Drum and Bell Temples; light meals for as little as $10.

Drum and Gong Fusion Restaurant, 104 Nanluogu Xiang, 10-8402-4729, serves hearty Chinese in a contemporary setting; dinner about $15.

Mirch Masala, 62 Nanluogu Xiang, 10-6406-4347, excellent Indian in a hutong; dinner about $10.

Red Capital Club, 66 Dongsi Jiu Taio, 10-8401-8886, created with the same passion for Red Chinese kitsch as the Red Capital Residence a few lanes to the south. The menu features some of Chairman Mao’s favorite dishes, such as roast pork; about $20 per person.

WEST END

Makkane, Jeong Seong Rae, 10-8238-7070, is an excellent Korean restaurant, and Isshin, 35 Chengfu Lu, 10-8261-0136, is popular for sushi, both near Wudaokou station in Haidian; dinner at both about $10-15.

TO LEARN MORE

China National Tourist Office; (818) 545-7507, www.cnto.org.